Reviving an old thread to disagree with the commenterswho claimed additional play added by NRG disconnects. It’s imperative to use the right bolts - button-head or pan-head for the hub-side, torqued appropriately. If properly installed, the current NRGs feel tight and well-built.
I also modified to keep horn and turn signal cancel by modifying the slip ring and turn signal cancel arm. This required using a dremel to remove the back-side bump out which holds the connection between the ground wire and the slip ring, removing the slip ring itself, drilling a new hole to pass the wire behind the turn signal cancel arm, and passing the wire through the hub. Works perfectly on my 3.2.
The NRG hub (rear)
Bump out removed and tabs pulled to remove slip ring
Using a small hole at the bottom (6 o’clock) of the NRG hub to align the top (12 o’clock) of the slip ring. The hub will be installed with the NRG logo facing down. A new hole needs to be drilled at the slip-ring holder’s 9 o’clock to pass the slip ring wire.
Hole drilled, wire passed
Passed through the opening in the NRG hub
Originally I’d hoped to be able to use positioning of the wire like this; it didn’t work out. I had to bend the connection 90º toward the camera and use a little electrical tape to keep a ground short from blowing the horn non-stop. Don’t think I have a photo of the final position. Used a small PC screw to hold the slip ring assembly in place.
Installed with the .5” bolt-through spacer (not the bolt-on spacer) which feels a lot like stock height. No spacer wasn’t enough clearance between the top of the steering wheel and the gauge hood, 1” spacer was too much distance between the wheel and the turn signal and wiper stalks. Obviously you do you.
