Quote:
Originally Posted by Pazuzu
There are 50amp relays specifically designed for radiator fans. The relay can be the same or stronger than the fuse, but not weaker.
The switch side of the wiring can be tiny, since there's basically no electricity running on that side. 18 gauge is fine. The switch can be on either side of the relay, it won't know or care.
For the fan wiring, 8 gauge should be plenty, assuming it's connecting the relay to a fuse panel,right in the engine bay. 6 or 7 feet total path between the fuse, to the relay, and back to the ground point.
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Thanks, Pazuzu.
I was going to use the factory wiring and fuse, as it’s heavy wire powering the fan, and hook it up to the relay. From there to the fan. Negative wire run to the switch.
If I go with all new wiring, there is a positive lug for jumpstarting the car in the engine compartment. Can I use that for both high power to the fan and low power to the relay, with the negative wire running from the relay to the switch? Both power wires would be fused.
Edit. Accessing the fuse box is behind the glove box and a major PITA to get to.
This picture is from when I was testing the fan with direct power. When I finalize everything, I will solder all the connections.
The cut black wire with green tracer, is the wire from the DME to trigger the fan on and off. I’ve been trying to determine if there’s a break in the wire back to the DME, so it’s cut. Edit. Checked the black with green tracer and it’s good.
