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I can see "retorquing them" after a recent rebuild but otherwise you are not duplicating the factory torque specs. The factory torque specs are for an antisiezed barrel nut on a clean washer - not on a nut that has been rusting to the washer and stud for over 20 years. I'd give them a little twist to see if they are more than finger tight but otherwise I'd let sleeping dogs lie.
I use a 10mm hex drive on a "wobble" extension to get to those nuts. It isn't a straight shot.
Caliber60: The valve cover studs tend to come out no matter what you do. I wouldn't swear off the power tools for that reason.
-Chris
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