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gregpark gregpark is online now
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Napa
Posts: 2,375
LVT/LVP is not slippery like laminate. I haven't sold laminate in decades, it's a lawsuit waiting to happen for a flooring contractor. Especially if it's installed on stairs. The MDF core isn't water proof and the seams pooch up with any ponding water. LVP is what you want if you're looking for a wood plank look that's not slippery. Most of the tiles (LVT) mimic stone, are 1'x2' and I install them Roman style with the butt joint of the following course splitting the tile of the previous course. Cheap visqueen is all you need to stop water vapor from possibly bringing unsightly mineral deposits up through the seams. LVP/LVP is water proof so that's the only reason for visqueen which just lays down with no glue or tape and doesn't even have to be cut in super accurately. It's just too stop mass vapor. Almost all products have the pad attached to each board these days. The reason for the thin rubber or cork pad is to eliminate clacking noise under foot. All door jambs must be under cut to the thickness of the floor covering. Leave at least ¼" expansion space around the entire perimeter (especially carefully on the width). The boards lock together all around, make sure each and every board is positively locked. They tilt in at a 30° angle and drop flat with persuasion. I use all kinds of specialty tools but primarily a 1 foot chunk of 4x4 to gently tap together and then bang down to lock. Sometimes the best tool in the bag is a block of wood. What cuts off at the end of a course is a starter for the next course. That's the only part of the room that piece can be used. I usually install 2 or 3 courses at the same pass across the room to save steps. My first move is to cut one board in half and a board in thirds. Then you have 3 starters (including a full). No need to snap a chalk line, once you have 4 or 5 courses together you can move it into position as a unit then place temporary spacers at the wall to hold the flooring in place when you're banging the rest of the floor together. If you want to Change directions, such as down a hall, it can be done using 3" Gorilla tape. The locking edge is trimmed off (cut starters down the hall) and the 3" Gorilla tape is carefully placed upside down under the seam catching each side by 1½" and walked down right away. Regular cheap duct tape will not work. The transition ends up being super tight and clean compared to installing a T mold divider. Order matching end stop for sliding doors, hearths, etc. You don't want to fit the flooring tight anywhere and it can expand and contact under the end stop, reducer, T mold, etc. Different manufacturers have different terminology for these transition pieces and it's easy to figure out what you need. Click together floating flooring is designed for the average handy home owner to install and it's not brain surgery. It takes years for me to train a guy how to template for various sheet vinyls and I can teach a guy how to install at least the field of a room in LVT in minutes. The better quality LVT/LVP is warranteed for life for residential and looks much nicer than the cheap stuff, although even the cheap stuff is bullet proof too

Last edited by gregpark; 10-04-2022 at 06:59 PM..
Old 10-04-2022, 06:54 PM
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