[look 171]

Originally Posted by Shifter

Man, you could have snapped a picture of the serial number and sent it in for the recall and got a quick 60 bucks!


I recently went through the table saw research.

I had an old Craftsman 113, aluminum table, direct drive unit. It was okay, but Zero safety equipment. Got tired of fighting with the fence, and I didn't want to spend the money on a fancy fence for a 50 year old saw.

If you are looking at used,
1- Do you want 110 or 220?
2- Cast iron table - Good ones are difficult to move. You aren't tossing it in the back seat.
3- Riving knife - If it doesn't at least have this, you don't want it.
4- Contractor or cabinet case?

I decided on new, the used big box table saws just weren't worth the headache.
A new big box unit was half the cost of a new Laguna Fusion 2. Which was half the cost of a Sawstop.

I waffled on what to get for several months before I decided on the Sawstop. Yes, if triggered, you will need a new cartridge, saw blade and underwear, but still cheaper than a visit to the emergency room.

Yes, I know real men have been using these things for centuries without losing a finger, but I am a big old wuss.

Now the next thing you need will be a track saw. Just about removes the need for a table saw for cutting panels.

Track saws are nice but do we really need one? We have a Festool track saw, its great but I can do the same with a saw guild made of plywood for under 10 bucks and get the same accuracy. Track saws and guilds are only rough cut jugs if you ask me. Everything should be squared up on the table or panel saw to get uniform and accurate dimensions.