Quote:
Originally Posted by CosmosMoon
@Winter911
This is awesome - great work!
I'm working on a project to put a targa bar on a cab that has never been a targa (becauseit's a 993), and seeing this was really helpful/inspirational. I'd love to see your detailed write-up. For some reason the forum won't let me PM right now - working with the admins to figure out why - I'll PM you when I get it sorted. I'd love to hear about what you did to ensure it was at the right position/angle, and how you held it in place for the initial tack-welds.
Couple questions for you and the wider group:
I've read a bunch of threads with folks putting on the targa glass. They all do a hell of a lot of taping to keep it in place. Is there any reason why I have not read of anyone using a mild adhesive - like silicone or the Porsche glass adhesive - in a few strategic places to help make this easier? It seems like the sharp corners would be an ideal candidate for something like that since there's no chance for it to have to be shifted around during install. You have to cut the seal apart to get it off anyway so why no use some glue?
How tight would you guess the fit is between the window, seal, and metal pinch seam of the body / roll bar? In other words, if you think of it as a sandwich of glass, rubber, metal, is it:
a. the rubber compressed tight
b. the rubber is just resting on the metal / glass
c. slight gaps between the metal / rubber and/or glass/rubber?
I was actually thinking that spending the $95 for a spare window seal that I would just cut into short pieces to use to dry-fit the window and targa bar all together before welding would be money well spent - especially since I'll be paying someone else to do the welding. It would also help me unravel the mysteries of where to route the wiring without having to try to figure it out by pulling apart the layers. (I will have upper brake light and defroster wiring)
Cheers!
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apologies for the delay. Life got busy.
First, my first mistake was using an URO seal. I'm sure the process wouldve been a lot easier with an OEM seal.
The reasoning for the tape is to keep the edges of the seal from slipping off the window. Once the seal is completely in place, you can carefully remove the tape.
the fit is pretty damn tight. I used the string method to slip the seal into the "lip"
and I had to pull it really hard to stretch the seal over the lip. No sealant of any kind. Just soapy water.
if you follow the thread i linked in page 1, you should have all the measurements you need. NOTE: One measurement on that thread it's not correct.. If you give me your email, I'll send you my complete write up and it'll show which one.
a. the rubber compressed tight: The rubber rests on the body mildly tight
b. the rubber is just resting on the metal / glass: The rubber holds on tight to the glass and metal.. this is the reason why seals can't be reused. they're on there so tight you have to tear the seal to remove the window.
c. slight gaps between the metal / rubber and/or glass/rubber? no gaps anywhere