Quote:
Originally Posted by MBAtarga
My 2 cents - if the wood surface has a finish on it - lacquer, varnish, shellac, etc. - the products above aren't doing anything with respect to the wood. They sit on the surface and evaporate. The finish is doing what it is meant to do - protect the wood structure underneath. Applying these products might make the furniture etc look nice (temporary) - but that's all it is doing.
Exceptions to the above - true "oil" finishes - such as mineral oil on a butcher block for example. "Tung oil" products typically have a hardening agent of some sort so it's not truly only oil. The wax mentioned above likely has some solvent and component that truly does soak in the surface.
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If the finish is intact, you are correct. However, the wax, oil, solvent compound will protect the finish just as car wax does for your paint.
To use Howard's, or any other similar compounds, as an original finish also works, just differently until the surface becomes sealed. Then you're right back at protection and renewal.
I do this professionally and adding a bit of shellac makes it trickier, but fantastic results. The ultimate endeavor here is called French polishing. That's about 30 coats of shellac, oil, wax and a LOT of alcohol.
I make my own 'Howards' from turpentine, wax, and tung oil or BLO. The ratio varies with each restorer. The good wax has toluene in it. Non in CA. Get it from the UK.
I make my own shellac from flakes. I have a few colors. It's non waxed so it will stick to anything and anything will stick to it.