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[caution: Do this this when it is unplugged. There may be residual voltage. I've had a single spark with the trigger off when using. The drive wheel transfers X0,000Vs to the wire I believe and should be considered a power line. This is for a Lincoln135 but yours should be about the same.)
1. Unscrew the shield at the tip with needlenose and clean that end.
2. Take pliers and pull wire through the system keeping the wire as straight as possible. There should only be slight drag overall. Inner sleeve liners do wear out and need to be changed occasionally. Blow everything out with compressed air.
3. Unscrew the idler/tension wheel wingnut and pull wire again. There should be almost no drag. Any drag should be at the wire spool which needs slight tension to keep it from instantly turning into a birds nest. BTDT. That wingnut sets the tension and the spool should turn smoothly.
4. Turn both idler and drive wheels. Both should move relatively freely. Bearings can eventually seize when stored outside. It's possible the drive motor has seized since you are getting a solenoid activation "click" from the trigger but the motor is not turning the wheel.
5. Plug iback n. With the idler/tension wheel disengaged, pull the trigger. The drive wheel should turn with no load on it. Do not touch.
6. Unplug again. Use the wingnut to set the idler-to-drive wheel clamping force. Too little and the wire won't be pushed or your welds will sputter with inconsistent wire feed. Too much and premature wear happens.
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Meanwhile other things are still happening.
Last edited by john70t; 01-22-2023 at 11:50 AM..
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