Quote:
Originally Posted by otto_kretschmer
The rims came today and look lovely.
And I found another hiccup on those cones. They are too wide as is and I need to remove .080 on each. I can do this on the lathe but I need an arbor. Maybe I can use the three jaw but there isn't a lot of meat to grab on so I started looking for something to make an arbor. The thread is M9x1.0 and that is the snag.
9mm thread is rare. I couldn't find anything at the usual hardware stores. Then I went to the speciality fastener store and they had nothing. I was resigned to order it from McMaster Carr and wait a couple days but MC had nothing either. Nothing showed up on Amazon. McMaster Carr did have a M9x1.0 die for $48. So maybe I can chuck up a chunk of rebar in the lathe and cut it down and run the die to get the threads and have an arbor.
wtf,,, why is everything so difficult?
My brother told me the only thing he has in M9 is in the engine of his dune buggy (rod bolts). This made me go down another path. I have old rod and flywheel bolts for my BMW motorcycles and checked those but they were too big. Then I went back on Ebay and found 9mm rod bolts for VW type 1 engines for under $10 and a lot of other 9mm rod bolts for old Kawasakis and Polaris (snow mobiles?)
so... maybe get a VW rod bolt to make an arbor but then I remembered we have a surface grinder in our family machine shop. Doesn't everyone have a surface grinder in the corner that they use once every decade?
I have options: make an arbor with a VW rod bolt and use the lathe or use the surface grinder.
An easier way would be to buy a set of Shimano 105 hubs ($90) on Ebay and keep the Campy hubs as paperweights but this is becoming a issue of pride now. I'm not going to let these Campy hubs beat me. |
You made it difficult by using those Campy hubs. They must be rare or one-offs. Campy parts are still pretty easy to get, a shop must be willing to order them for you. Most people don't want to order a 12 dollar part only to discovered its wrong and get stuck with it not to mention the time it takes to make sure its the correct cone for your hub. Call some of your local shop that have connection with Euroasia imports (La Crescenta CA). They have that stuff hanging around. If you are heart set on Campy, there are used hubs out there for a couple hundred bucks. You next issue will be the freewheel. The gearing is limited and the rear derailleur form that era has a max cog size limited. A Campy super Record is limited at 27 tooth, if I remember correctly. What rear derailleur is going on it? Remember those cheap Chinese freewheels sucks. I would hate to see it go out on you on a hill climb. My favorite are the Suntour freewheel. Their Ultra 6,7 speed is bomb proof from that era. I couldn't break them and they last and last. The Regina Oro is a damn good freewheel but all those old stuff are pretty much worn and it is a PITA to overhaul them. What ever you do, don't get period correct and end up with a Regina America. I broke two of them within one season training and racing on them. I know Regina was the gold standard of the time.
If I am doing this, a typical Ultegra or Dura Ace hub will be in my hand because I know they are good and parts are available within 15-20 min drive from my house or a few clicks on the net. I really like seal bearing hubs from the mid 90s-2000. Its easy to replace just the bearings at the local bearing house. Simple and they last a long time. I had some American Classic hubs I beat to death and they just refuse to die. Look into those. Dare I say, some of the Chinese hubs are OK for general sport riding. I am unsure about racing and their smoothness but there's nothing to a hub but the bearing.