[PeteKz]

Looking at the last couple posts on your Zoidberg thread, it appears that the car started running badly on your trip to the swap meet.

Some of my thoughts so far:
- Air leaks cause problems at idle and low throttle settings when high manifold vacuum sucks air past the leaks and the leaks comprise a significant amount of air into the manifold. At high throttle settings, small air leaks don't affect running because there's much less vacuum drawing air past the leaky places, and much more intake air volume, so air leaks don't lean out the mixture appreciably. In other words, your very lean condition at full throttle almost certainly is not because of intake air leaks, although the high idle and poor running at low throttle may be due to leaks.
- If it started running poorly suddenly, I would think about whatever you did to it just before it started running poorly. There's a good chance that you knocked something loose or reinstalled incorrectly, or some hose worked it way loose while on your drive, etc.
- If you can't get the idle below 1200 RPM when fully warm, that strongly indicates you have some air leaks into the intake side, or something in the auxiliary air system is stuck. You can defeat the AAV and AAR by blocking off the air hoses to those devices. You can also bypass the decal valve and block off its air connections. Blocking these off will simplify your troubleshooting.
- IN your case, I think I would start with looking for air leaks. A smoke tester is great if you have one, but you can also squirt carb cleaner or starting fluid around the injectors, air box seams, and other fittings or use propane from an unlit propane torch, to see if the idle changes.
- Since you are dealing with CIS, you will need to measure the system and control pressures, and you will need a testing gauge to do that. If you don't have one, get one. Then test your system pressure and control pressure. Start with it cold and immediately measure the cold control pressure, then let it warm up and measure the fully warm control pressure. Then test for residual pressure after 20 minutes. Use either the shop manual, the Bentley SC book, or the blue "Bosch Fuel Injection & Engine Management" book. Or look for the procedures on other threads here.
- Have you checked the injector spray patterns and delivery yet? Do that too.
- Have you changed the fuel accumulator yet? I don't think it's responsible for your running problems, but these seem to have a 40-year life, especially with the ethanol-contaminated fuel we now are forced to use. Check it by: remove the drain line from the bottom of the FA, plug or pinch off the drain line, then run the pump briefly. If you get any fuel leaking out the bottom of the FA, replace it.