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While I'm no "expert", I have a procedure that leverages the difficulty of adjusting for reverse.
The short description is to start with the trans in reverse and the shifter in the reverse position. It seems you can get there? When in any shifter position, the shifter should/must have a little freedom to trace out a small rectangle. Otherwise the shifter will be pinned against one of the 4 sides. That's like constantly resting you hand on the sifter knob. (Not good.)
Coupler loose. (The collar nut; NOT the pin on the transmission rod.) Trans in reverse. Shifter past the lockout and in reverse position. Describe the small rectangle to yourself, then place the shifter in the middle of the rectangle. Tighten coupler.
Now shift to 1st. (Since that diagonal shift is the longest travel for the shifter, once that is adjusted, all the other positions will work fine.) Try to trace the rectangle in 1st. Is it floating in the middle and not pinned against any side? If so, you're done.
If it is pinned against a side, start over. Remembering which side it was pinned against, shift back to reverse and loosen coupler. Readjust the shifter position within the small rectangle, trying to eliminate the pinning in 1st. Just remember that the pivot in the shifter reverses the directions. (Pushing the shifter forward, moves the coupler back. Shifting left, rotates the coupler right. ETC.) Since you are already in reverse and the shifter is floating in the middle of the rectangle, you should only need very minor adjustments to correct the pinning in the 1st position.
(Remember you're only adjusting the shifter; not the transmission. The trans should be "clunked" in reverse.)
I hope this helps.
Michael J.
'78 SC
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