[Otter74]

I loved, loved, loved Istanbul. I spent a week there in ca. 2014 and walked everywhere. I'm not sure I'll be able to contribute much that others won't already, but a couple of things that come to mind:

Go to a place on the Asian side in the Kadıköy Market called Çiya Sofrası. I think there are like three next to each other, all with a different focus - I mean the one that is sort of a cafeteria-style mezze place. The food blew me away. I already had an inclination towards food from that corner of the world, but the trip (and that restaurant in particular) is what made me start cooking Turkish food at home. They were all started by a chef and writer named Musa Dağdeviren, who spent a lot of time diving deep into regional Turkish home cooking, and showcases all of this at his restaurants. I didn't learn of this place until I was already in Istanbul and read a New Yorker article that a friend sent my partner while we were there.

Aside from the main bazaar, I recommend stopping by ordinary neighborhood bazaars or outdoor markets if you happen to see one. They're a different experience than the main one, and they're where a lot of normal people shop.

Walk as much as you can. It's a wonderful city for walking.