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That sounds pretty close to my cold start procedure. Turn the key to 'on' and let the fuel pump go to work for a bit. Pump the throttle a few times. Turn the key fully and use a combination of foot pedal pumps and hand throttle to try to get it going. The challenge is that it often fires up to under 1000-1500 RPMs for a second, then dies. After a number of attempts I can usually get it past 2000 RPMs, where it will roar to life. I'll use the hand throttle at that point to keep it at 2000-2500 until it's warm.
A failed warm start is really different. The car will crank, but not fire. It can take 6-10 crank attempts to get it to go. Once it does fire up, it goes right into a nice idle. There's none of the partial running and dying that happens at cold start. And of course much of the time it fires right up during a warm start.
At first I thought I might be dealing with poor fuel delivery or carburetor settings. However I've been reading about the role that the distributor can play at start. That got me thinking about upgrades to the ignition system.
On a side note, I'm really glad I replaced the plastic lever that is attached to the hand throttle. When I got the car, the hand throttle did nothing. This was due to the plastic control arm underneath being completely decomposed and lying in bits in the tunnel. Having a working hand throttle is so nice.
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