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Originally Posted by Superman
Your guesses are spot on. Thanks muchly for the advice. Perhaps I will draw up a grid map to consider.
One thing I am not clear on, and perhaps several here could answer, is how to install the underground "T." When I have installed pipe systems, I have started at one end and ended at the other. But if I cut a slice out of an underground pipe, how do I get the two female collars, and the T fixture, on? I cannot move the existing pipe to create sufficient room and then move it back into place.
And wouldn't polyethylene pipe be better? Somewhat bendable, when warm enough. That is what I used to replace a failed incoming water line to a house I owned years ago.
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There a few different ways to add a tee, but without knowing more about what you have there, this would be my first suggestion. Using what's called a "slip fix" coupling and a tee fitting.
Cutting PVC pipe can be done with several methods. If it's "thin wall" and 1" and under I like to use this tool:
Schedule 40 and/or larger than 1" - a hacksaw or a ratchet cutter is the way to go:
Now your question about pipe - is a good one. I don't know the level of concern in your area about frozen water in your pipes. Maybe give a call to a local irrigation supply house, explain what you are doing, and ask their opinion. Post it here afterwards if you want. Helpful info to know. Otherwise I don't know why conventional PVC pipe couldn't be used.
You could probably be OK just running 3/4" diameter since you are using "city water' which typically has very good water pressure/volume.
But if you were installing a conventional irrigation system, for your size lot, I would go with 1" diameter before dropping to smaller (3/4" and/or 1/2") when you branch off.
I know one contractor here who always used 1" for the entire system he installed. Streamlined the assortment of fittings he had to keep on hand and also allowed for future expansion of the system just about anywhere desired.