[PeteKz]

First, put your location in your profile. Someone near you may have various mods and be willing to take you for a ride to see how they work. How many miles on the car? Add that to your car description in your "garage" and your signature line.

This is a topic that brings out lots of opinions. There is no "right" answer, only what makes the car handle like you want it, within reason. I also have a 1973T with the factory sway bars, and I generally agree with Harry's recommendations.

First, I will emphasize to make ONE CHANGE AT A TIME. Almost everything you are contemplating can be accomplished that way. You want to see what each change does, before complicating it with more changes.

Lowering: Do not lower the car much if at all. When you lower a MacPherson strut front suspension, you change the roll center in a negative way. Perversely, lowering the front increases the body roll. If you must lower the front more than 1/2", the right way to do it is with struts that have raised spindles. Then you don't adversely affect the roll center or bump steer. The 1973 and earlier cars have the same as the Euro ride heights. The Impact Bumper cars are the ones that Porsche raised the suspension to comply with the bumper height standards, and can benefit from lowering. If you want to lower the car, you will need stiffer torsion bars to reduce bottoming out.

Tie rods: Are the old ones worn? The OE tie rods I took out of my car 2 years ago were still good, but I changed to the Turbo tie rods anyway. Given the crappy roads around here, I'm not sure it was an improvement, because they transmit more harshness through to the steering wheel. If you do need new tie rods, start here, and see what difference they make for you.

Shocks: I highly recommend the Koni Sports. They have adjuster knobs on the tops of the shocks, so you can easily change the damping from street to auto-X to track and back. I run mine on the softest settings on the street because these are light cars. The Koni Classic shocks are also very good, and go softer than the Sports, but the adjustment process requires dropping the front shocks out of the towers, compressing them, and turning them clicks to make the adjustment, then reinstalling. The rear adjustment process is similar. This takes a lot more time than the Sports. If you tend to "set it and forget it" then the Classics may be a better choice for you. Then drive the car and see how you like the damping.

Torsion bars: Popular combos are, 21mm front/27mm rear, or 20mm front/26mm rear (Turbo bars). Do NOT go stiffer than these, unless it will be a track car. Either of these pairings will work well with the Koni Classic or Koni Sport shocks.

Suspension bushings: The rear bushings on the front A-arms are almost certainly worn. The rubber bushings on the rear spring plates probably are worn too. The solid teflon bushings offered by Tarret Engineering and Rebel Racing seem to work very well. But the Porsche rubber ones work well on the street too.