Now that you have piston #1 at TDC at the end of the compression stroke, rotate the distributor so that the rotor points to plug wire #1 position on the distributor cap. To do this, put the cap on the distributor, and see if there is already a mark on the distributor where plug wire #1 position is. If there is not, make a mark with a pencil or a piece of tape. Rotate the distributor so that the rotor ends up pointing at the mark you made for #1 spark plug position.
Just snug up the hold down bolt and see if the car will start. Once the car starts, you can check the timing with a timing light. I like to use a dial in timing light to make setting the total timing easier. Your timing specification is usually shown at both idle (initial timing is 5 deg ATDC) and at 6000 RPM (total timing is 32 to 38 deg BTDC). You should have the vacuum line disconnected and plugged with a bolt or golf tee. One nice thing about setting the total timing at 6000 RPM is that it doesn’t matter if the vacuum is connected or not – the engine doesn’t have much vacuum when the throttle is opened this far. First set your initial timing at idle – rotate the distributor until you get close to where the initial timing spec is for your car (5 deg ATDC). Now set your timing light to the total timing spec (32 to 38 degrees). With the car idling, line up your light on the timing pulley and then rev the engine. You will see the timing marks advance and then stop (if your advance is working correctly) and let the engine return to idle. Where the advance stopped is the total timing. If this isn’t at the 32 to 38 degrees desired, rotate the distributor slightly and try it again. You shouldn’t have to sit at 6000 RPM, just rev the engine quickly and note where the timing stops advancing. Rotate the distributor at idle and try again until you get the total advance desired – regardless of where the initial timing ends up. The total timing is the more important setting to maximize acceleration.
