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Part 3
You should know what camshaft you are going to replace your’ s with before starting this rebuild. This is part of the performance planning. Making sure your cam can either be reground with the new profile or are you buying new billets.
Pack the heads ready for shipping. Inspect the cam housings for wear and plan on removing the oiling spray tubes for cleaning. Now you can turn the engine over and visually inspect the cylinder bores for wear and any damage. It’s a good idea to do this before you remove so you at least have an idea of what is ahead of you. Again, this can add to the budget, so now is the time to make additions. Removing the cylinders and pistons can now be done with careful attention not to damage or beak anything. Be patient here. Expect the pin clips to go into space, Use some eye protection here. Don’t worry about losing any clips, these will be replaced with new ones. Be careful not to break any Piston rings either. You want to know if they were broken before so any oil consumption issues can be confirmed.
The bottom end of this engine is now in front of you. The rods are sticking out of the case. They can be removed now with care, or after the case is split. Its your choice. I suggest, if you can, to remove the rods while the case is together hanging on the engine stand. Undo the nuts and before you remove the nuts fully from the rod bolts, tap on the nut with a soft drift or use the socket to push the caps off the beams. Remove the beam and carefully slide the cap around the crank pin and out. Now inspect the rod bearings. The two bearings to really take note of are the number two and number five rod bearings as these are the last to get oil. If they look great, you can almost be sure the main bearings are in great shape. No oiling issues to be concerned about within the engine case. You will be replacing the rod fasteners, so don’t be concerned about mixing any up. Note here, before you measure or have the rods rebuilt, replace the fasteners that will be reused in the final assembly first. Do not measure or rebuild the rods with the old fasteners. Expect the rods to need repair. Magnaflux crack check, straight check, Pin bushing replaced, fasteners replaced, BE’s resized, CCL’s checked and rebalanced. It is also a good idea to plan in the costs to have them re shot peened.
A large part of the rebuild cost is in front of you. The Pistons and cylinders. The first parts to check are the cylinders. Any damage and or big scratches? Don’t worry about the cross hatching. If they visually look good, now is the time to measure the bores. I would expect them to have an amount of ovality and taper to them. If you are staying with the same bore size, these can be repaired. Just be careful who you send them to. A third-party parts house offers this service but unfortunately, they have no clue of the repair work required nor do they have clue about what finish is required etc. I have re done the specs for so many customers who were given poor replacements. I won’t name who they are, but just be careful and before you send them anything, ask them for the specs that your cylinders will be repaired to.
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