Quote:
Originally Posted by LWJ
Gents, (and occasional Gals)
They could find nothing except one of the key fobs was bad.
It went from 12.5 or 12.5 to 12.2 with 2 minutes of high beams. Aha! Bad battery. Off to Costco.
The next afternoon the car was as dead as they come. 3.6 V. HOLY BATTERY DRAIN BATMAN!!! I charged it up over a day and a half.
As there is zero draw, I have no idea what to do? !
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There should be some
'small' draw for clock/radio/security whatever.
Use a different multimeter and check settings.
Amp flow function might use a different port (protected) than Voltage or Ohms.
Remember there is 'surface charge' and 'deep charge'. uh. I think those are the terms...
Surface is like static electricity and will drain off the surface.
Deep charge capacity is the stuff that turns diesels at -20deg.
~12.6V should be held after running and lights are left on for a few. (ie static charge of 13V+ is removed)
~12.4V is 50%.
~12.2V is about 25% remaining iirc.
Electronics don't work below 12V or 9V depending. again iirc.
I went through something similar. Mom's Pius was left with an interior light on. A borrowed static jumper gizmo made it run for a few seconds and then shut off. No joy. New battery was purchased from local dealership and then that failed. 2V. Which is almost impossible for a new battery under any load. Took it back. They tested it for about 5 hours, gave me a complete federal database search, made me sign over my second born, and finally gave me a replacement battery that works.
edit: there is the very random chance that the key fob is continuously sending signals but I don't think it is possible to drain that much juice.
There would have to be something in the car using it.