Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeke
"I think that having the sides and top level, plumb and square will make the rest of the door frame build/install much easier and better."
Always the best practice. You can cut the bottom of the door with a gap parallel to the floor and all the visuals look good.
And if it makes any difference, should anyone put wallpaper or vertical paneling on the walls, plumb and level is good. I know wallpaper is not in style so much, but back early in my career we saw a lot more of it. Out-of-plumb corners and casing made for one hell of a job.
|
Thanks. Great point about it potentially impacting anything with vertical lines.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Douglas
Like Zeke says, always the best practice.
What does the floor look like where the door will sweep over it when opening/closing?
I've lived in places where the floor wouldn't allow a door to open/close because the floor would hit it 6" out from the wall.
|
We shouldn't have that problem, but I know what you mean. We've got a closet door that only opens about 85º-90º because it hits the floor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantilla
Having flipped a few fixer-uppers, it's more important to look correct than be correct.
I've used a few tricks to fool the eye after installing something plumb & level, only to stand back and see it looks odd.
As Zeke said, "...and all the visuals look good".
|
Yep, and I may end up having to do some fudging here and there for appearance. The missus would be bugged by a gap at the bottom of a door that was a triangle.
__________________
Steve
'08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960
- never named a car before, but this is Charlotte.
'88 targa

SOLD 2004 - gone but not forgotten