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Back in the day I used to install, sand and finish roll cork flooring. Too many problems of heat from under the fridge and around heater vents. Now it comes in click together 2'x2' panels with a stout eurothane finish. Really good product that can hold up to large dogs and water. It's also available in many colors and configuration, really attractive flooring. The panels are rigid too so you should be able to install it directly over your subfloor without a plywood underlayment. Regardless, you should take out the existing flooring to the subfloor. You have ⅜" tile over ¼" cement board over ½" cdx plywood over five sixteenths ship lap strip "flooring" that's not proper flooring to begin with. It's not T&G to conceal fasteners so it was probably top nailed. The old school strip flooring was 2¼" wide, five sixteenths thick, always square edge and
top nailed. In CA usually red oak but sometimes white oak. Because of the expense, riffed sawn is rarely used. The greeny screws used to hold your cement board down are typically 1¼" long so go through the plywood, the "hardwood flooring" and a half inch into your subfloor. They are thick screws and have no doubt left big holes and split the thin boards beyond repair. They are a real bicth to pull . So busting out the tile then gridding the rest into removable squares is the easiest and fastest method.
You should also consider using an LVT flooring if you want a hardwood look. Beautiful and water proof (great for a kitchen) and barring a burn is a forever floor never needing replacement.
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