With the cam sprocket, chain tensioner, idler sprocket, etc removed, I could remove the 5 nuts holding the cam chain housing to the case. But in order to get the housing off, the head/cam tower assembly needs to be lifted up about an inch so the cam chain housing can be slid off its mounting studs and rotate to clear the end of the camshaft.
But before removing the head/cam tower assembly, the oil return tubes need to be removed. Then you can remove the barrel nuts and their washers from the head studs. Once the nuts are removed, the head/cam tower assembly can be lifted up about 1 inch, then the cam chain housing can be removed, and finally the head/cam tower assembly can be lifted off the engine exposing the cylinders and pistons.
Next I removed the tin pieces that channel air flow around the cylinders. Then using a rubber mallet and tapping on the base of the cylinder I was able to slide the cylinders off the head studs exposing the pistons.
Using 90 deg curved pliers and a small flat blade screwdriver, I removed one of the wrist pin retaining clips from an outboard piston and tapped out the wrist pin with a punch and rubber mallet to remove the piston, then repeated for the other two pistons on that bank.
Repeat all of the above for the other side of the engine. Remove everything that attaches to the crankcase (breather cover, oil cooler, oil pipe, oil thermostat, flywheel, crankshaft pulley, intermediate shaft cover, etc.
Now I was at the point I described above where I rented the engine hoist and moved the engine mounting fixture the 4,5,6 case half. Then I proceeded to remove the through bolts and all of the nuts that hold the two case halves together and finally split the case halves.
Plastic wedges I used to help separate the case halves
