Quote:
Originally Posted by gdp_samson
subscribed...
Chris, would it be possible to tell us about the layers (steps) you will take from start to finish ?
1) bare metal
2) epoxy + sanding using marker for defining Hi/Low ? how many layers ?
3) paint ?
4) clear coat ?
|
As I get further into the job I'll go over all of that in detail.
Briefly though, I only use the marker on bare metal. Never on paint. With the SPI epoxy it goes on with some gloss so a guide coat really isn't necessary. If I do need it I will get the powdered guide coat and apply it.
As for how many coats? That's determined by the panels. As many as needed to allow me to block the panels out. Generally it is usually at least 2 sessions of shooting 2-4 coats per session, with blocking with acrylic blocks after each priming. Sometimes more if there are some stubborn lows.
For color, if doing a metallic I will use basecoat. I get coverage then one more coat. I like Sata guns and use a 5000 HVLP 1.3 for metallic base. If a solid color I will generally use a single stage like Glasurit 22. Depending on time I will either shoot 5 coats in one session then start color sanding, or do three and three, meaning shoot 3 coats, sand with 400-600 wet to flatten it, then do three more and start color sanding. Sata 5000 RP 1.3 for clear and single stage.
Clear is the same procedure as single stage. I want to have an excess amount of clear or single stage on the panel before I start color sanding to ensure that I have enough mils left on the panel when finished sanding and buffing. I use a hi solids true polyurethane clear that stays a bit softer than the urethane clears which means it buffs easier and also stays a little bit flexible. Hard clears are great for OEM's, but with refinish hard clears chip easier and generally the harder a refinish clear dries, the lower quality it is.