Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay
Thanks for the information- I am pulling my rack soon to reseal it. I got the seal kit from Pelican-do you guys have any other tips?
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Use a pilot bearing/slide hammer removal tool to remove the bottom seal in the control tower. I bought a
puller set from HF: I had to tighten the snot out of the the third largest jaw set to get enough purchase on the seal, then everything worked like a charm. Steady the bottom of the tool set up at the top of the control tower to ensure tool does not contact any of the machined surfaces inside. I had the rack in a bench vice with soft (plastic) jaws.
The tie rod ends are easily removed without damage using this type suspension tool:
I used a dremel with a conical burr bit to remove the peens holding the locking collar (fastens the passenger side steel tube to the AL housing); then hammer and punch to loosen the locking collar.
I removed the rack with the pressure and return hoses in place. Sure as rain, one of the hose allen head (6mm IIRC) banjo bolt heads stripped out: I used an easy-out to easily loosen/remove the damaged bolt. Genuine Porsche replacement banjo bolts are 17mm ATF hex, p/n 999.134.018.02; I paid $9.38/ea. from Porsche Asheville for two bolts; got them in less than 48hrs (ordered out of Atlanta warehouse).
Removing the rack with the lines connected requires removal of two M6 bolt/nuts that clamp the hard line to the cross member (bolt head visible in the bottom of crossmember); access to the washer/nut of the one bolt closest to the control tower is damn impossible. On reassembly, I placed the bolts through the clamps (reversed) so that the washer/nut combo is on the crossmember side: access to the bolt head (10mm ATF) was as inaccessible but I was finally able to get enough purchase to tighten the nut. Time it took to find suitable tool to hold bolt head is withheld (let's just say more than ten different tool combinations were tried); turns out 1/4" drive 10mm short socket on a 1/4" drive flophead handle with a 6" piece of tubing to extend the handle ended up working for me.
I had just replaced the motor mounts the week before: the rack was dripping one drop (on me) every 30 minutes or so: I believe removing the rack at the same time the crossmember was lowered would have simplified the process. I also took the rack rebuild opportunity to replace the tie rods: I guestimated the lengths based on the old tie rod lengths: seating surface of the rack end to the bulge on the back of the tie rod end. When taken to the alignment shop, steer ahead was in spec at 0.02*, total toe was close but just out-of-spec at 0.36*: I was stoked at being so close by eyeball and the alignment technician was very suprised!
Peter