In no way do I want to rain on the parade of this thread. Hats off to the clever work.
But, I don’t want anyone who is new to this to think it is this easy.
I have replacing broken Dilivar head studs since the 80’s. I would say only 5-10 % can be removed using this process. The rest are in tight with locktite from factory. Last week I took apart a 3.0 SC engine. All 12 lower studs were broken, never seen that before.
The typical method with engine disassembled without pistons and cylinders is patience.
First I cut the stud if needed to about 3-4 inches remaining, if you have that much. Then weld a 10mm nut over the top of the stud. Yes, you can weld to dilivar. Then take an acetylene torch with a rosebud tip and heat the bottom of the stud in the cylinder opening. I keep a temp gun handy to monitor the temp as if you melt the aluminum, you are done. Once about 275-290 degrees the locktite gives. Still you have the work the stud back and forth slowly u till you can see you are home free and back it out the rest of the way. That is with a long ratchet over the end of the 10mm nut.
