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Originally Posted by juanbenae
I have a 15 JK and having done a ton of research our motors are very prone to overheating. They run hot by design for emissions and Crysler screwed up big using less than worthy valvetrain materials. Not to mention a plastic oil cooler, horrible thermostats, water pumps and a factory fan that does not kick on until 226*. The other thing is the oil filter housing at the top of the motor does not have a check valve so after an hour or so all the oil drains back into the pan so every start is a dry start for the valve train. another issue with the early 3.6's was that the block sand casting leavins were not removed effectively. do a search for "sand in my cooling system overflow".
I've put in a Baxter filter adapter that has a check valve and holds a 1/3 of a qt or so to cover that 3-4 seconds the oil pump needs to push fluid when starting. Did my second oil change after 3500 miles that are mostly trails and rocks and waiting on Blackstone data. I watch mine closely all the time.
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Did not know that. Looked on some forums and some of the guys say it's no big deal but I think it's a little strange. Should we thank the cost accountant for saving $$ on that anti drain back valve?
I've had my fill on a 2016 RAM 3.6. Three replacements of the oil cooler and finally ended up buying factory. The owner brings it to me for oil changes as at least I know the filter torque specs. No metal Dorman units could be purchased at the time. Sold out.
Purging the air from the coolant is really important. FWIW, there was an air purge valve on the thermo housing that was hard to see and get to on the RAM as the engine is so far down into the engine bay. You would have to read or be told it was there to know.