Quote:
Originally Posted by dannichols1474
I finally got it thru my thick skull that I need to adopt at least some of what scarceller has been recommending for the control of timing around the idle set point. So, I broke the 1000 rpm column into two columns: 800 rpm and 1300 rpm - both columns have the same timing set points so when the engine is idling at 950-1000 rpm the timing stays rock solid at 14 degrees.
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I also came to the same conclusion with the new engine as I did last year with the CSI to ITB EFI conversion: stop beating my head against the damn wall! So I got in contact with Gary Bains at Bains Tuning and put down a deposit to get on his tuning schedule for the first week of August. I told Gary what I have going on and that I need a tuning job just up to the break-in rpm limit of 5000 rpm.
From experience, I know he will get the tune dialed in and then I will only need to polish the tune with the auto tune program for the driving conditions he doesn't cover in a 2 hour dyno tuning session. To me, it's money well spent.
Then after I complete the break-in period, I will make another dyno appt and let Gary wring out the engine to 7300 rpm.
Like Clint Eastwood in Dirty Harry said: "A man's got to know his limitations..." and I know tuning EFI is one of mine.
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Why don't you have him break in the engine on the dyno and do the whole tune? He can break the engine in in less than an hour...
See here:
https://www.hpacademy.com/previous-webinars/229-engine-break-in-myths-dispelled/
I hate seeing people waste their time...