[DGI]

Member @MPG Steve Posted this in a different thread and im reposting it here for reference down the road

"I’ve had two ‘04 BCRs and an ‘04 R1100S. To help keep track of which BCR I’m referencing I’ll refer to the last two digits of the VIN # as they were only 41-VIN #s apart. VIN # 55 I bought used in FL in 2011 with 9,000 miles. #96 I bought in WI in 2016 with 2,500 miles. I believe I was third owner on both. I was able to get factory AIR sheets (from Holt BMW Athens OH) which give some info on build dates, warranty and appointments but no # of 300. Both bikes came through the same Chicago dealer in July of ‘04.

The ‘04 R1100S I’ll refer to it as the “S”. I bought S used (3rd owner) with 10,000 miles. It was the comfort version and had a Ztechnik pipe. It had the long torque arm and narrow rear wheel and no steering damper.

I have ridden this fleet of three to a total of 200,000 miles. I’ve had no major mechanical issues. The S’s forward FD seal began to weep at around 75,000 miles. At 83,000 miles on the S, 62,000 miles on # 55 and currently, 20,000 on # 96 the pivot bearings were/are original. I attribute this to regular retorquing. However, S being my first of this type did have pb’s that were loosening. Finding this play, doing the side-to-side check, led me to do my first retorque. With loose pb’s the bike turns faster as the rear wheel begins to castor. After tightening the pb’s, I was caught out at the end of my longish driveway when the bike didn’t turn as fast. I almost took out my mailbox.


All had ABS with servo-assisted (power), linked brakes. Nine brake bleeders. Both 55 and 96 had stock pipes, steering dampers, wide rear wheel, belly pan, CF valve cover protectors and short torque arms. 55 was the comfort version with clip ons above the top clamp and a convex (tall) windscreen and 96 was the standard configuration of clip ons below the top clamp and a concave windscreen. The S had been converted to the comfort configuration as it had the low clip ons moved to the top which requires an addition anti-rotation strap.

One of the BCRs did have its “# of 300” plate, the other didn’t. I spent much time querying BMW Motorrad and BMWNA attempting to find out what number of 300 96 was. Even though my two BCR’s were only 41-VIN numbers apart, BMW had no idea whatsoever how to determine the number.

I called, e-mailed and finally, early this year using BMW’s newest form of customer service, I “chatted” with Motorrad and NA. When I received the boilerplate “please rate our service” prompt I let them know that I felt the Corporation was lacking. The next day I got a call from Customer Service, for which I commend them but they still had no clue as to what # of 300 96 is.

Shortly thereafter I tried one more trick. I called one of the oldest BMW motorcycle dealers in the country and asked for the oldest parts person. I will call him “Bob” as much personal effort was put in on his part and I don’t want people calling him for help in this matter without my contacting him first to see if he wants to spend the hours doing the research that is required to determine the build number. I rewarded Bob for his help and would expect the same from anyone who he helps in this matter.

Bob figured out that he could see the MSRP of each VIN number of this S assembly line progression. All these builds were identified as S’s, no BCR distinction. The price of a BCR was around $3,000 more than an S. By searching the MSRP’s between 55 and 96 he was able to see four more identically high-price S’s. I feel confident his method positively gives 96 its correct build-number.

I found an Ohio data plate manufacturer who could reproduce the plaque.

‘04 on had twin spark ignition systems. The center coil is a coil in cap design. The original PN coil fails at about 20,000 miles. I went through two sets, one under warranty and one set out of pocket. Finally BMW fixed the problem around ‘08-‘09. I have moved these superseded coils to to 55 and then 96. The original coils I put on the bike I sold; I made it clear to the new owners that the coils would fail. I kept in touch with the those who bought my S and 55. Those old design coils both failed around 20K. A low mileage S/BCR will most likely have the old coil PN. Plan on a $300 upgrade.

Having no center stand, maintenance can be troublesome on the BCR. The BCR tool kit has no lug wrench! My guess is with no center stand the end user wasn’t expected remove the rear wheel. This and no QDs makes me think BMW was wanting to cut weight which is a bit ludicrous considering the heavy weight of the BCR.

BMW made (and may still be available) spools that attach at the belly pan rear-mounts (center stand mount on S’s). These spools receive Pit Bull rear stands. With a pit stand and a 2” PVC pipe placed vertically, capturing the Telelever’s lower knuckle, a small jack will lift the front wheel. Once “up”, the PVC needs to be clamped to the belly pan’s vertical inlet strut as the three-point lift is a bit wobbly. This configuration allows both wheels to be removed at the same time.

Wheel chocks work but limit the front or rear wheel maintenance options. An A frame or overhead hoist works great; loop-choking the top clamp (avoiding wiring and plumbing) is a very secure method. The hoist also is very helpful when removing the fuel tank especially when it’s full.

The tank is an irregularly-shaped aluminum saddle. Be careful not to ground the battery terminals which are” a few millimeters below the tank’s rear section. Having metal QDs is very helpful in this operation. It eliminates having to pinch the fuel supply and return lines (which in part of their lengths have internal hard lines that can be crushed by a pinch in the wrong place) but also provides a drain port for the fuel tank. QD’s are also shutoff valves so draining the tank requires another QD with a drain hose fitted. It has come in handy on the road when a fellow rider runs out of gas. The plastic QD works fine in this drain-only condition.

The tank-capacity is not great. Coupled with 40-ish mpg at speeds over 80 mph, 250-at speed-miles is the furthest extent of its range. I carry four one-liter fuel bottles in bicycle water bottle holders mounted on my saddlebags.

[Note: BCRs didn’t have QDs which is good because the plastic QDs BMW used in that era all fail. Someone might have added QDs to a BCR. Hopefully they are the upgraded steel variety.]

Accessing the battery takes about 40-minutes of disassembly/assembly if you are well versed in its R&R. Sometimes lifting the tank is required. If not ridden weekly a battery tender is a must. BMW makes a jump lug-kit which is cheap and easy to install. It places a positive and negative terminal in an easily accessed area on the starter cover and the left cylinder. Charging alligator clips or jumper cables work great here.

To access the battery the left and right main fairing must be removed. When removing the fairing-halves the first time be careful as the two lowest fasteners (one each side) are nearly invisibly-located. They are located behind the BMW roundel. They are accessed from the inside. A ball-end Allen wrench is useful here. I’ve done work on many S/BCRs. Many times I’ve found this mount broken. If broken on the left side and the bike placed on the side stand (always necessary on BCRs), the heat from the left head pipe will blister the blue checkerboard graphic on that side. There are six-fasteners per side (all the same Allen-size).