Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloggie
Disagree with your comment about clutch adjustment.
The factory measurement for the rod that goes into the master cylinder is about right, but there is no physical reason why it cannot be adjusted enough to move the clutch pedal a fair bit.
There is a limit on one end if the rod is set too short where it will not actually actuate the slave cylinder and there is a limit on the other end where it will overextend the master cylinder.
I did some pretty heavy duty checking while my car was apart and you do have enough room in that adjustment to move the pedal perhaps 20 degrees or perhaps 30, which is what I did as I am 190 cm with very long legs.
The adjustment I used is in the one in this picture with the arrow pointing at it.
No issues in my experience, but certainly would reinforce that the recommended position is quite good for most drivers.
D |
To each his own. I completely understand your need to make adjustments to the clutch pedal, given your personal/physical demands. That being said, I think it’s still worth mentioning that the clutch travel itself (the actual clutch housing, not the clutch pedal) is quite small and therefore a change the in pedal travel by shortening the clutch master cylinder pushrod length, is going to reduce that already slight amount of clutch travel.
When you did your length adjustment and checking of operation, did you fully depress the pedal and then check the release of the clutch housing? A simple check for ample release of the clutch housing is by checking if you can turn the rear wheel (block one wheel if you have an open differential) with the transmission in gear with the pedal fully depressed.
If you can’t easily turn the rear wheel, that would indicate the clutch isn’t fully released and it’s similar to slipping the clutch when shifting gears. I equate it to riding the brakes and wearing out your pads (clutch disc) and rotors (flywheel and clutch pressure plate/foot) far too soon