Quote:
Originally Posted by Josey Whales
Hey guys,
Is anyone actually running Bilstein B8's up front? First hand experience only please. At what point would you advise going to a B8 over the B6. They're recommended for lowered cars, but how much lower before you would suggest going to a B8? The valving seems more in line with sport yellows which I have no interest in, but maybe that's just because of the shorter shock body. Bilstein says they're designed to perform like a B6 on a lowered car, but that's just their general blah blah blah... For cars with lowering springs, seeing how torsion bars don't lower the car how does this apply to our front ends? And why don't they make a B8 for the rear?
Any first hand experience with ride quality and tech experience as to when to go B8 over B6 is greatly appreciated. I want to lower the car as much as possible without going to raised spindles.
Thanks for reading!
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It depends on which versions you compare but for the base street versions b8 is considerably stiffer than b6,
b6
35-001270 Performance *Standard Version 2- Setting: 1440/1000- With Standard Spindle green
b8
34-001134 Performance+ - Standard Version 2- Setting: 1505/1160- With OE Boge Suspension- With Inner Threaded Strut Tube
b6
sport 35-003885 strut assembly 2300/1075 yellow
b8
34-050507 Performance+ - Sport Street Version- Setting: 2560/1315- With OE Bilstein Suspension
w/ anything but the biggest t-bars std street is the best match
I'd go w/ b6 w/ raised spindles and adjustable steering knuckle