Been working on this EFI project since…., oh – about a year now! That includes when I started ordering conversion parts/ pieces and cleaning up the 964 alum intake halves.
Things are really coming together now. I’ve scaled back work travel for the Holidays and can spend late afternoons and evenings in the shop which is a big plus. Here’s what has been happening in southern Wake County:
Upon learning that my LH rear floor mat would not fit due to ECM bolted thru the floor (but on raised platform, if you will). That was an unforced error – but nothing that a good blood orange IPA in my left hand couldn’t resolve! So, I removed the 2 offending small diameter bolts, utilized some “S” metal (HVAC galvanized metal strip for two adjoining sheet metal panels) by bending into a Z so it can attach to the rear of my aftermarket seat bracket. Now the whole contraption is off the floor and floor mat can be slid into place. Bracket consists of alum street sign (not stolen) and cutting board.
Here’s a shot of finished wiring to DBW pedal and wiring to Fuel pump relay. Cool thing is that the wrapped wiring just sits under front floor mat. Didn’t have to pull up any new carpet and not disturb the industrial strength glue that Sonderwerks used with its installation. Fuel pump trigger wire (switched ground) continues under the dash and exits into the frunk at far passenger side as I could use a somewhat hidden rubber grommet for easy peasy access.
At the firewall, I needed to weatherproof my rear, lower LH opening. I stuffed some closed cell insulation pieces around my two wires as the finished interior piece has some open area within itself. I then cut two pieces of alum trim (think aluminum window trim for houses) with RTV sealant around the perimeter. Should be fine until the car sits in 3’ of water as these cabins are not water proof at transmission!
Early Fall, I decided to proceed with rebuilding my CV axles. With this ’76 having a 1982 drivetrain, I ordered 2 new CV joints (think larger 108mm version) to replace two original that showed slight galling in one or two spots. Well, that didn’t work – as my car is still utilizing the smaller 100mm CV joints left over from the 912E days. Lol.
I guess the NY shop that did this swap 20 years ago decided to just swap the smaller flanges over to the 915 transaxle. Anyhoo, I just cleaned mine up really well and repacked the 4 CV joints with their original ball bearings. My original boots are in great shape and got a good soaking of 303 Protectant. I swapped LH and RH axles around to put the forces onto the lesser used side of the CV joints. All new Bel Metric hardware and Schnorr washers. Pro Tip: Replacement 8mm Allen head bolts need to be no more than 50mm length! Ask me how 55mm length bolts did going into wheel hub ---- Not too good! When fully torqued, the rear wheel would not roll – at all. 2nd set of hardware ordered quickly thereafter.
Also, axles were date stamped something like 4/76. I have since learned all about 911 CV axles!
Working with Sports Purpose Garage in Raleigh area on tuning the EFI and assistance with setting up the ECU Master Black, I discovered that I needed to move my oil temp wire to the Coolant Temp input on the ECM. Luckily for me, those pin locations were in the same harness plug and only 2 pins apart. De-pinned and reinserted.
And as I get ready for the initial START UP, I installed Dansk muffler and rear valance. This was also a good time to torque down new CV bolts at rear hubs.
Next chapter here we will talk about Initial START UP !! This just occurred, and boy.., is there some more self-inflicted drama to talk about. I’m still soaking in all the highs and lows from this event.