More info to report. I managed to remove the three bolts holding the Permatune unit. That bottom right one was a *****. I followed the trouble shooting instructions for a Gen 4 unit on the Permatune web site and got the following:
Pin 1 to Pin 3 measured at .1 ohm. Spec = 0
Pin 1 to housing measured at .8 ohm. Spec = 0-.5 ohms
Pin 1 to Pin 4 measured at 3086 ohms Spec = 3300 +- 100 ohms
Pin 2 to Pin 5 measured at .3 ohm. Spec = 0
Pin 1 to Pin 5 measured at 244 ohms. Spec = 200-575 ohms
While most are out of spec, they are not wildly so. I will call Permatune tomorrow to see what they recommend.
I also measure the coil resistances as follows:
Primary measured at .6 ohm. Spec = .1 - .165 ohms
Secondary measured at 687 ohms. Spec = 390-630 ohms
So I have ordered a new Permatune coil.
I tried to remove the engine compartment relay tray after removing the Permatune. I have it loose and moving around but I can see no way to remove it, the wires connecting below prevent it. Perhaps if I could remove the rubber round base for the Yellow relay? I tried to push upwards on it from below, will try some lubricant tomorrow.
I finally managed to remove a spark plug. W3DP0 gapped at approx .023”. It was dirty but cleaned up easily. See below:
Given the difficulty of removing plugs from the right side of the engine I can only assume the left side will be impossible without substantial further disassembly. In any case I don’t think the plugs are causing my symptom, just need a little “Italian” tune up when I have it back together.
The rotor, on the other hand, did not look good, a heavily burned area was evident where it contacts the cap lugs. See below:
So I have a new rotor on the way and a new fuel filter as the access is great now that the Permatune is on the bench.
So in total I’m waiting on: new yellow relay, new coil, new rotor, new fuel filter. I have yet to check the ignition timing, will have to wait until I have it running again. Will advise what Permatune says tomorrow.
Thanks for all the help.