|
Thank you for the pic, I can see how this would be helpful.
I think I found the root cause of my symptom, or at least one of them, time will tell. I applied vacuum to the distributor ports. I expected to see the rotor move, but there was zero movement. I can move the reluctor (not sure of the name) wheel by hand but not with vacuum. The advance port holds vacuum but the retard port slowly leaks down. There is at least 3/16’ axial play which probably explains the somewhat raggedy appearance of the contacts inside the cap.
So it would seem the distributor needs work. I will remove the rest of the plugs, find TDC on cyl 1, note where the rotor is pointing and remove the distributor. Is this the type of job I can do myself? I have a friend that has a distributor machine.
I think I saw a rebuild kit from Parts Klassik for over $200 but including a cap and rotor. The side play is near zero so I don’t think the bushings need replacement. Can anyone recommend a shop to rebuild my distributor in the event I decide to go that route? I just don’t want to wait for weeks to have it done.
I spoke to Permatune (Lonnie) and reviewed my measurements of the coil and CDI unit. He didn’t think there was anything to indicate the coil or ignition unit had failed but offered to put them on his test rig to verify. I may do that but at this point I am inclined to forge ahead and get the car back together once the distributor has been addressed. It’s been apart on my lift for over a month as I’ve been digging deeper and deeper with all your help. I have a new Permatune coil and a new Yellow relay. Rotor and cap on the way.
The blue vacuum hose is connected to an electronic valve located about 18” above and to the left. There are two valves there side by side. The one on the right does not hold vacuum when unpowered, not sure if it should. I think I read something about the function of this valve being at start up only but could use a tutorial on its function and how to test it, thanks.
|