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Well, a breakthrough of sorts. After two weeks of applying penetrant, tapping, shaking, blowing compressed air and manipulating the arm, lots of rust and flakes fell out and I now have approximately 3/16” of movement of the arm when I apply vacuum. So I reinstalled the canister back on the distributor and have been able to verify that the magnetic core does rotate with vacuum applied AND it holds vacuum. The other port still does nothing and slowly leaks down. It is my understanding that this port functions to retard the timing for emissions reasons and can safely be left open to atmosphere and the port to which it connects on the electric solenoid valve plugged. I would like to know your opinion(s) on this and if it necessitates making some change to the engine timing from stock.
So the challenge for today is to install a new distributor cap, latch the cap clips, reinstall the Intercooler, see if it will start and if so, check the timing.
So another question is whether or not to install the 5K resistor in the coil position on the cap in series with the coil wire. This came with the distributor rebuild kit and I can find no mention of it or guidance on what applications require it. Seems like it would have to reduce the voltage and current output from the Permatune unit that the coil sees, not sure if its an EMI thing or if I need it, opinions welcome.
The last thing. I was able to reinstall the distributor with the rotor pointing where it was when removed and the timing adjustment pretty close as well. The engine has not been turned over while the distributor was out. Does anyone have a link to a good procedure for adjusting timing with a standard (non dial back) light. I have the WSM but its description is not the best. Perhaps a YouTube video?
Thanks so much for the assistance, feels like I’m close with your collective help.
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