[McGalliard]

The backstory:

The car is a US spec 1975 911 S that I purchased in January 2023. Not sure exactly what the real history of the car is, but it had probably gone relatively unused for some time recently (the latest reg sticker is 1989) but not unloved, per se. 62k miles on the odo and no reason to believe that's not the truth. Although I was assured it was started and driven around the block periodically, I'm not sure if that was true. Thermal reactors were removed prior to my ownership and the fan was upgraded from 5 to 11 blade.

Slowly, over the last two years, I've done the following:
New fuel tank
New rubber fuel lines from tank to tunnel, tunnel to pump, and then to accumulator
New Bosch fuel pump
New fuel accumulator
New fuel filter
Rebuilt fuel distributor
New rubber return lines from Y back to the tunnel and then tunnel to tank
New ignition wires
New spark plugs

Here are the symptoms:
-Hard cold start, but really no issues with warm start
-Once started, it hunts at idle a bit
-No smoke initially, but after a minute or two, whitish smoke that does not let up
-When warm and idling, the idle tends to be high, I think, around 1100+
(side note - my mechanic favors the smoke to be more over rich fuel than oil, but could be a combo)

Of course, everyone with knowledge on this forum says "PRESSURES, PRESSURES, PRESSURES".
I do have the pressure tester setup and over the last year or so it seems that every time I test the pressures, usually after a messed with some component, I've gotten different results and all are very confusing to me. Sometimes that adjustment was as minor as disconnecting and reconnecting a fuel line.

The latest pressure results are:
@ 13.5 deg C
-Cold control pressure: 0 bar
-System pressure: 1.8 bar
-Warm control pressure: 0 bar

The 0 bar is particularly confusing to me at this time. This has not always been the case. If I recall correctly, the first time I ever tested the pressure, which was before I was actually able to get her to run, I had reasonable control and system pressures that were a touch below spec. However, since I could not get ignition, I had to keep working and fixing and clearing... This was before the fuel distributor was rebuilt (professionally, although I did crack it open myself first).

I do have power in the plug to WUR, based on a noid test light. I had power to the plug at the CSV when I previously tested at some point in the past, based on a noid test light. The fuel pump output volumes were sufficient last I checked, but I suppose it wouldn't hurt to run it again.

Where do I start?? I'm hoping the 0 bar control pressures point to something straight forward, easy, and obvious.

Thanks in advance,
McG