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which year is the car in question? Maybe I missed it.
Older cars used bimetallic strips that complete the lamp circuit when cold (signals always started with “on”) and when they pass current they heat up and curl to break the circuit. How much current = how much heat = how much time to cool off. So losing a bulb blinks twice as fast since they do not get as warm. (half the current in a 2 bulb circuit for example)
If your lights are going dim and blinking slowly, you are drawing more current than you should be and the ALT light going on just confirms this. That sounds like a short of some sort, and it would appear to be between the blinker unit and the bulbs. I would check the housings first for damage or mixed up wires. They take a beating from accidents and weather/dirt.
You can isolate front from rear by pulling the fuses or just popping the bulbs out.
The front turn signals (i only have some g-body exp) are wired from the headlamp buckets with a ground (brown) lead, and then a lead for parking/marker lamps and a lead for the turn signal filament.
Good suggestions above around cleaning up/checking your grounds and pulling fuses to see what stops the current draw. Identify, isolate, annihilate.
If you can ID the year I can take a look at that diagram (assuming it exists) and find more targeted suggestions. Gd Lk!
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