[HarryD]

Originally Posted by Monkey Wrench

I htink Id wet sand it with a rubber pad backing, it cuts faster kills the dust, and paper lasts longer.

then a hugh build primer and sanding more coats until you are happy ou can buy some glazing putty if you like to help feather any minor imperfections when you are completely happy with the surface and its even enough for you, then paint it.

Itll be brighter red probably you can decide if youd mind that..

if you like you can buy rockerguard or a product like that. it will likely leave a rippled effect. the ripples are a easy way to hide imperfections but if you are going for the OEM look you may not want stipple, you can decide all that.

I haven't used it foer years so Im not sure if the fomulations changed.. maybe ask a guy who's more in tune with the more recent products, my knowledge is admittedly a bit outdated and enviro laws changed a lot of the chemistry.

If you can get a two part epoxy product that might be a good move, I like to get two part epoxy down first, any color will do. maybe a epoxy primer.. Id probably look what I have and want o use up if I had other colors , then fine, its just a base coat. youll want the right mix for the topcoat.

maybe give the epoxy a little time to cure up , it might sand easier then and again I'd wet sand the epoxy with a wetordry paper. it will help it not plug the paper so much.

if you use a spray gun you can get a better spray pattern and have a more even surface, but even if you do a brush coat, its just a little more work evening things up , then a rattle bomb or HVLP gun is a little nicer..

a true bodyman may approach thigns differently and no doubt would do it faster than myself. maybe see what other reesponses you get.

could have been dirty or waxed between those paint layers who knows? if so the weak bond is going to still be there unless you cut through the red and get a toothed grip on the base. if the yellow is stuck ok Id call it a good base . if its loose, maybe paint stripper, or a sanding disc will get it off faster than hand sanding.

when you get to the topcoat you are wasting your more expensive mixed paint if its not even enough , things will jump out. if so you can do more buit best to leave the red until you are happy with your evenness of tha base.


I had to refinish some plastic for my rear bumper end , I bought one less squished and wished Id shopped for a more perfect one. I kept going at it and painting it and some underlying paint cracks transfered through and my finish wasn;t even enough..

eventually I used an epoxy and that worked . once I had a better base, I worked out the smoothness and evenness more.. then the paint cracks stopped telegraphing through. I then used high build primer and glazing putty. . it seemed to take me forever. my mistake was not stripping it right theough, and epoxying it first.

I tne repainted my bumper which was smooth and just faded, that went real fast because my base and my evenness did not need a lot of extra work. I thnk just used fine paper gavei ti a good wash and the OEM faded guards red was fine as a basecoat.

now my bumper is a lot more red and shiny than the rest, but thats something else to tackle.

if you try maybe you can get epoxy in guards red or whatever it is.. I htink they can load spraybombs with a two part epoxy but if you use it the whole can will harden up, Id ask others about that.
I just used basecoat and a clearcoat in a rattle bomb.. at least its not so stinky - I have no paint booth.
i have a decent gun but I was feeling azy , I didn't want to clean it lol..

Thanks for your thoughts.

After I sand and glaze the surface. My plan is to use a high build primer (SEM) followed by PPG OMNI MTK (or Deltron)2 pack top coat. I may (Deltron) or may not clear (MTK) as well.