Here is a story that reflects the "Brotherhood" days in SoCal.
This is the same brotherhood that was associated with Timothy Leary and his Laguna canyon ranch (another good story)
Jim Russell was a pioneer in surfing Baja and Mexico.
The times we spent at "Shipwrecks" were some of the best surfing trips in my humble life.
Living on $3 a day in Puerto Escondido and some how surviving one of the meanest surf breaks ever was the top of my list.
In 2011 the complexities of life for a true soul surfer were too much for him and he committed suicide.
There were some a paddle outs at his favorite spot in Mexico and Baja.
I attended the one in Baja and cried my eyes out.
https://www.surfboardsbyrussell.com/history
https://www.thegardenisland.com/2011/08/31/hawaii-news/iconic-surfboard-shaper-russell-dies/