too bad the stripper is unavailable
Its a bit harsh but you can buy muriatic acid
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip-Green-1-Gal-Green-Muriatic-Acid-GKGM75006/202690263
I think I diluted it about 1:3 with water, put it in a garbage can, toss my parts in and all the rust and paint is removed.
when I took them out, they do rust fast, so I'd do a quick wash with hot water and immerse them in water and baking soda, then use baking soda on rags to rub the surface.
aftrtr that Id take my plumbing torch and warm the metal driving any water out of the pores, then paint.
the muriatic acid gives off the most horrible toxic fumes. it wil rust anying in the surrounding area with the fumes. Its quite a dangerous acid in my popininn and a lot less safe than using the regular strippers.
I did a lot of part like brake callipers steering components, loose sheet metal parts. stuff I could take off and drop in a bucket. not larger parts like doors.
becuase the fumes are so terrible Id say that is a problem, you would not want to allow kids or pets anywhere near the stuff or your precious toolbox.
I dropped some brake adjusters in there, they were alunimum. all I got back were the pistons , the aluminum completely dissolved. it was gone!
some of the parts I droped in had some never seize on them , the copper type, then ther parts started coming out eveidently taking on a copper plating. At first I thought maybe this would be helpful, would the copper resist rust can I intentionally copper plate it to make it more rust resistant? well from what Im reading not, the plating may actually act as an anode and cause things to rust faster.
I think its practical but you really have to watch how you handle the stuff baking soda is your friend , it can neutralize acid. its not poisonous, Id keep some mixed with water to quickly eutralize any spills definitely do not chance splashing it on your skin or face.
a lung full of the fumes could possibly kill someone. Its dangerous.
I have a stack of steel rims I want to clean, Im going to try using electrolysis. I have a big 24 V power supply maybe that can speed thigns over using 12 V if that works I may try larger items. how well it penetrates folded seams, not sure.
a hunk of sacrifical iron , a plastic tub, washing soda and a DC power source is all that's needed. from my experiments Ive found this to be my favorite method to restore parts that can be removed from the car. Ive also found it will remove paint but you may find some paints more stubborn.
the penetration into voids, well you can experiment but the distance between the electrode and the surface being stripped does have an influence.
on rusty metal Id find that the rust pits were cleaned out leaving pitted metal. brushing on 2 part epoxy worked well, I never saw any of the parts rust again if Idid that, I think the pits in the metal were great at grabbing onto the epoxy. and the two part epoxy was good at filling voids and providing a primered layer.
its not a fast process, it wsn not unusual for me to have ot revisit the bath clean the parts and my electrodes a few times but it wasnt; vary labourous.
I could go at my rims with a wire brush and an angle grinder or in some places use a flap disk, the problem is it makes cluds of dirty dust.
I was thinking of making up a stand with a bearing, from a volvo front axle bearing hub..
so I can mount my rims and spin them , then I could check them for runout, also helpoful to be able to spin the rim while painting. I could use my angle grinder ot get the easy parts clean, maybe speed the process.
I could take them in for stripping or rent a sandblast booth or drop them off at a place that wants to strip and powder coat but I want to drop a bunch of cash on clenaing my rims up, so Ill try electrolysis.
electrolysis is cheap, its not the fastest way, there is a bit of labor cleaning after each immersion.
if the electrodes short out , thats a problem so you need ot be careful with how you place parts in the tub, keeping the sacrificial anode always out of contact.
probabbly a good idea to add a fuse to one of the electrode wirres. AC power is no good for electrolysis. Id normally bridge in a car battery, one I dont care so much about. I leave it connected ot a charger or it deplets the battery.
fumes given off, well I dont know so maybe take caution. best to do this outside.