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Thanks milt. I am kinda dumb, so you gave me too much credit then I deserve.
John,
That's little, tiny bath, 6x8 or 9'? I thought about shear on 1x sub-floor too every time we tear them out. Thing is, how many nails are actually doing its work plus, all the ends of the 1x sub floor are more then likely split to hell in a thousand pieces. So much for shear? If you are concern, I lay another 1/2" or 5/8 plywood over that but do pre-drill and sink some screws through that 1x sub floor to keep it from squeaking and glue the additional layer of plywood sub floor and hit the joist with longer screws. I like to leave me some room for the tile (therefor 5/8 plywood), thin set and whatever else you are planning for waterproofing. I am not a big fan of OSB for sub floor especially for a tile floor but I am sure its fine. For me, two layers 3/4 sub floor and you are good to go. Plus that gurder mentioned earlier and this thing aint going nowhere.
Again, if I am doing this, the sub floor would be out by now, fixed, block whatever joist needed, level and deal with the plumbing. Also, since you feel like this was a creative add on special, I always suggest and often do this for all my clients and throw down a couple of piers and a gurder. 4x4 would be far more then enough and much stronger then shimming, muti-level plywood sub floor. it will be good for your tile work later too, no flex=no cracks. Oh forgot, use large format tile thin set. Tiles doesn't sink.
I don't care if they are commercial plumbers but the calculation of the slope and drain is normally done by the tile man or contractor. Make sure he has the info of the slope or finish floor so he can run his drain. Its actually pretty easy, cut flush before the finish floor goes in. We do this all in house by the same person, so there's no issue there, but having to have someone else come in before and after a certain task is done, there's a lot of finger pointing so beware of the dimensions is all I am saying.
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