|
I didn't do Swami's. We would generally head straight out the 52 (back when it was 2-lanes) and hit Marine Street first, since that was the best boogie-board spot around (somewhat Wedge-like, in that it had a nasty-hollow dredging shorebreak, and also an outside reef that would break above 6'). Since Horseshoes was just north, we could easily check that. If it wasn't happening, then either move north towards boomers or south towards Windansea/Big Rock. Also spent a lot of time at Scripps pier and Blacks when the reefs weren't on. Also had some epic days at Sunset Cliffs...I remember one where it was a solid 10-12'...dropping in on those faces on a boogie board was quite a rush, and the surfers were kind of slack jawed to see a sponger out there (this was in the late 70's, and I was riding my Tom Morey "kit" board).
By far the gnarliest I road and saw was Ocean Beach in San Francisco. I watched it break at 25'+, and went out on some 6' days that nearly killed me (nasty current and temps). But I was rewarded with some of the best "dry-hair" barrels ever.
Since I passed 40 though I just don't have it in me to charge big waves. Drainpipes did a number on my shoulder about a year ago, so I don't drop in and slot for *everything* like I used to. A man's gotta realize his limitations...
|