[JP Noonan]

Well in my per-fessional o-pin-onion I would say about two-thousandths less than too much, and about three-thousandths more than not enough.

Seriously it should not "wobble", if it does then most likely the bearings lost lubrication and seized up. Some of the electric ignitions (the one that replace the points, not CD boxes) claim to negate the effect on an out of tolerence dizzy shaft. I guess that a wobbly shaft can change the dwell as RPM's increase.

What I would do (yeah, like that means anything) is to turn the dizzy (take it off the motor first) so one of the cam lobes opens the points. Measure with a feeler gauge the points gap. Then try to move the shaft, without turning it, back and forth to see if it changes the points gap significantly. I know, not a lot of help, but it's an idea.

As for the advance plate, it sounds like either where the two plates pivot (in the center of the two plates is a hollow pivot point) some rust has formed. Or rust is on the little ball bearing that keeps tension on the plates. Or the vacuum advance canister is broken, it has a diaphrame inside that "might" have bent or something, try using a vac pump on the can and see what it does. Looking at mine in the car the little ball bearing is all the way toward the vac can. The little springs on the advance weights only affects the shaft the rotor is on, but FYI my rotor seems to be fully retarded at rest. To get the plates out, step 1. Remove all the screws. Remove the condenser, vac can, and dist cap catches. The plate should pull out with little effort. Then take the ball bearing off and the plates should separate. I lubed mine with Bosch dist grease after having problems with rust using 3in1 oil.