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I have been looking at some pictures of the assembly and didn't consider the drilling through cylinder head (which could probably be sleeved to compensate) but then also the fins of the cylinder barrels. I didn't remember that they were so close fitting to the studs themselves. I suppose the small amount of materials removed would not make much of a difference, but it is certainly not optimal.
I did find a place called "tight fit tools" on the web that makes drill extensions and what are called stub step-drills. In other words a short drill that steps up from the shaft size to a larger diameter that is then threaded onto the shaft. If you could allow the shaft to come through the head and cylinder barrel fins and then thread it onto the stub drill (remember, we are just drilling into soft magnesium here), drill out the hole to a size to accept the insert, thread the insert into place, and reinsert a stud, it might work.
This may be more work than its worth, but if we could come up with a system that works, I think it might make some people happy. I'll probably just have to pull it apart and do it right.
Thanks for the thoughts though.
Rich
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2004 GT-3
1969 911E
1988 944 Turbo
1990 BMW 325i
2001 BMW Z3
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