Matt,
You didn’t say what kind of ’68 2.0 you have. Looks like a ‘68T. Please post the engine number and type number (green arrows) so we can give accurate advice.
Does a notchback have an engine mount on the pulley end of the engine? What is this (red arrow)? That looks like it interferes with the fan. When you fabricate a mount, include a rubber mount and clearance to change the fan belt.
You are going to need to get considerably more air to the engine. Have you thought of how? At some point you will want a metal firewall for safety. It is also objectionable when you park it hot and come back to find the car full of fuel vapor and hot engine smells (aah, the aroma of oil on the heat exchangers in the morning.) Make it easily removable so you can impress your friends and hear that sweet song at 6000. You are going to need to seal the engine tin to the car so no hot air reversion occurs. In the short term you could simply space the engine lid up and back a few cm temporarily.
There a bunch of little things that will make life much easier. In ’71 Porsche installed some phenolic insulating spacers between the heads and intake manifolds (blue arrow). They are available from out host. I recommend you install two on each intake. This goes a long way to reducing the fuel boiling in the carburetors when shut off hot. You’ll need longer studs in the heads.
For safety you should replace these (yellow arrow) old fuel lines with new.
One of the reasons I want you to look in the sump is to see if there are any signs of chain ramps. There are six hard rubber ramps in the engine. If a piece brakes off, the engine usually is effectively destroyed. I recommend you replace all six (5 of one flavor and one of another) and the two chain cover gaskets. These newer plastic ramps are available from our host and are cheep insurance.
What was the original fuel system in the Notchback? Dead-end to carburetors? You will need an electric fuel pump. It is best to mount it low and in the front. Make sure all the rubber fuel lines are new and have the appropriate Norma-Schellen hose clamps.
You might find the opportunity to clean and paint (VHT 1500F gray) the heat exchangers. Are you able to fit the stock 911 muffler?
It may be your oil tank doesn’t have a level sender. Is there electrical connections on the cover plate or is it blank? It looks as if it has the sender.
The breather at the oil filler neck usually goes to the 911 air filter assembly. It might be wise to route it to an easy-to-drain 1 gal. catch tank then to a filter in the engine compartment. The hose needs to be the same size as the one from the engine breather to the sump tank.
Where are you going to put the ignition components and the voltage regulator? It would be best to continue using the original 911 engine wiring without modification. You will need to have the alternator light working to warn of a broken fan belt and the oil pressure and temperature senders connected to a gauge.
When you have the engine and trans out, please post some pictures of the underside including the rear suspension.
You can ask the moderator to combine this thread with the one you linked above.
If I miss some posted question, feel free to e-mail me the link.
Best,
Grady
gradyclay@hotmail.com