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Here's what I learned. The drill and 5 mm tap method works, but you have to carefully relieve the factory peening before you pull out the old splash valve, and you have to heat the adhesive. The bore comes out perfectly clean. It's better to make a little puller with a sleeve to sit around the squirter and a machine screw to actually pull out the squirter. This way, there's no risk of breaking off a tap in a bad spot. It's also good to make a drift from soft aluminum to tap the new splash valve in place. They don't go down far enough into the hole without a little persuasion, and the aluminum of the splash valve is too soft to hit with anything except soft aluminum or, maybe, plastic. The machine shop that I use made a nice tool for this that just goes into the bore, and which has a tip that fits into the top of the splash valve. Loctite 640 works great for this.
Also, the reason I had a plugged splash valve is that case sealer got into it. It seems that the last guy to assemble this motor put sealant on the faces of the bearing supports as well as on the perimeter of the case. Oh well, at least the case didn't leak.
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