Yeah, it happens when 300 foot water suddenly becomes 18' or so...this is rare, like Hawaii's North shore, there are good & less good days, but most of the year good paddle out rides can be found a bit North, a place called Pacific City...just ask where the point break is. Again...full wet suits, year round...water temps up here always in the mid to high 40's... The locals may be pissed, but just promoting Orygun tourism, right?
Besides, the word is out now...