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The second and last time I surfed in Oregon....
COLD COLD morning... Florence Jetty... me and two other guys out. Cold day, but a beautiful day. Birds flying, seals swimming, glassy conditions. All of a sudden, the birds and the seals were gone... It was like someone had turned everything off. It was still.
I have never been so freaked out in my life as I was at that moment in time. I absolutely KNEW the landlord was around and ready to collect rent. One of the other guys paddled in at the same time as me... It was clear soemthing very very Evil was around us. I swore I'd never surf in Oregon after that and never did.
I get goosebumps typing that story out...
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83 SC (gone) / 72 T (gone)
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