[c2 rower]

I have been working the alignment and wanted to share some pics and thoughts.

Get Fred Puhns book, How to Make Your Car Handle or whatever it�s called.

The single most important thing is being able establish level pads for the wheels, left to right and the surfaces under the chassis reference points used for balancing. The level pictured is NOT good enough, IMO. I brought home a Starret Master (a good machinist level will do, like a Starret series 98) level and put it on a nice straight square tube and used that to map out the floor to figure out what thickness shims are used. This is essential if you want use a kinematic pivot to balance L/R.

The front pivot point is a tooling hole in the pan just behind the front AC condenser. I use a rect box tube with a cap screw head that slips into that hole. On the bottom of the tube is another cap screw that acts as a socket for a steel ball in a plate sitting on the hyd jack. The ref points are the torsion tube covers.

The rear pivot is just the jack under the engine case parting line. I used to be squeamish about lifting here but I've gotten ever that. I use the cast cross member under the rack for reference. Remember to map the floor surface under the ref points with the level!

Camber is the easiest to measure. See picture of gage. Refer back to high school trig. I use plastic shims at the top, each one being 1/6 of a degree.

Toe is done with fishing line and conduit . It is essential that the spacing is the same front to rear! I use the wheel center hole rim to center left/right.

The rear settings are a pain in the ass. You have to study how the eccentric adjusters work. Expect some trail and error. Don't expect to do this in a evening.