Quote:
Originally posted by YTNUKLR
Those wheels might be pretty spiffy! I emailed you Byron
Today, I replaced the rear pads and rotors and changed the oil, then took it on a 400 mile road trip! I was just a little leery but it went great. Ran a can of techron through it and that motor seems much healthier now. Coolant light came on intermittently so I checked it, added a little water...but the coolant wasn't even *that* hot...even after running about 3 hours at 3k rpm....? Anything to worry about?
Thanks
Scott
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Be sure the air is completely bled from the cooling system via the bleeding screw on the T-stat housing. It's a hex head, looks just like someone drilled a hole and plugged it with a cap screw. It's usually an 8mm, I keep an 8mm nut driver in the cars for it. The sensor for the coolant level might need replacement, they get bad with age, and are easily replaced without tools as long as the coolant is cold.
A cheap way to get the shift mechanism feeling better is to buy an
E36 M3 shift lever, about $40.00 and a new bushing for it to rotate in, and a couple of the yellow plastic shift rod washers and install them. Shortens the throw, is bent properly to position the lever, and makes it feel much better. The link takes you to an instruction page, for an E30, but the E28 is the same. Check the inner rubber boot for cracks, this is a good time to replace it too since it has to come off and a replacement is about $10.00.
More shifter tech:
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e30/drivetrain/e30_remove_shifter_slop.html
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_replace_a_shift_lever.html
http://tinyurl.com/qxfnk
http://tinyurl.com/le3pl
Note some of the photos are broken in the last url, but most of them are still good.
You'll also want to replace the dog bones, the pittman links on the rear suspension they're almost always bad unless you know the PO did the job in the last 5 years, and then the lower control arms on the front suspension. I went bad (cost wise) on the lower arms, using E34 M5 forged aluminum units instead of the OEM steel ones. This should get rid of any front end vibration, if it doesn't, then that leaves the upper control arms which most people install with urethane bushings instead of stock or even 750i bushings, which will fit if modified.