[imcarthur]

This was our second trip to Cuba. We went in '99 to an All Inclusive 1 week sit & drink holiday & we saw nothing of the real Cuba. This time we were determined to see some of Cuba.

We stayed 1 night in Holguin in a Soviet-era hotel for 43 CUC per night (about $48 US). Then we rented a Vitara, filled it with rum & cigars & drove to an isolated resort - Cayo Saetia. Just 12 cabins on a peninsula that doubled as a game reserve. We stayed 4 nights on this slice of paradise.

We did drive into town & around for the drug drop. No tourists visible & none of the sullen attitude that you'd feel in Jamaica or other Caribbean islands. Everybody we asked in our very broken Spanish were happy to give directions & hitchhikers helped immensely to get around & find places. A cop in Mayari even hopped on his motorcycle & guided us to a missed cutoff & refused a tip! I had a hoot driving around.

We then meandered up to Guadalavaca (over a seriously bad road - 4WD came in handy here) where we spent the last 2 nights at an All Inclusive. The difference between the resort towns & non-touristed towns was very visible in attitude & visible wealth.

On the whole trip through countryside & several larger towns, we never felt threatened or even the slightest bit unsafe. It is a country that in many ways is 50 years behind the rest of the world. And it has some of the friendliest people in the world. Virtually no real crime & a great education & medical system - although they lack many basic supplies.

As jkarolyi noted, go before it gets spoiled. But make sure you get out beyond the gates of the resorts.

Ian