[jluetjen]

Originally posted by superhighperf
Thanks for the reply. I have read through all of those files and am fairly confidant that I can do the work needed. I have the mfi tool kit but it looks like I will start out by checking the linkage- butterfly valves with a flow meter. That procedure looks easy enough.
The thermostat hoses were never hooked up? I got the top two years ago but never installed them cuz I couldn’t find the one that hooks up to the heat exchanger. Will these hoses only help cold starting or will they improve over all performance. The thing runs great I just want to improve the starting and cooling.

Usually what people do is disconnect those systems and then richen up the MFI just enough so that it will start. The problem is that this can make MFI so rich that it fouls plugs and washes the cylinder walls with gas -- both of which then give MFI a bad name.

The switch you talk about. I was thinking of putting a momentary switch in the dash and use it to trigger the ground on the enrichment solenoid, to spray gas in the intake. It has never functioned and I plugged the hose up a long time ago. How did you wire up the switch? Did you need to use a relay?
Or are you talking about the servo? Thing. That pushes on the throttle and has an adjustment screw. That thing never worked and I lost the screw years ago. When the car starts it idles fine every time. I don't think I need to hook that thing up? I just want it to start every time and I know if I squirt fuel it will start no problem.

An easy way to rig a cold start with a 2.0 MFI is to run a switched 12V wire to the cold start solenoid. ('70's and later cars don't have this solenoid on the MFI pump.) I did it on my car and I've heard it is similar to what the factory used to do on some of the race/rally cars.

In the case of my car, I spliced a wire from the start circuit at the ignition switch and ran it to an unused switch on the dash. From there I ran it back and connected it to the cold start solenoid on the MFI. When the switch is closed the solenoid gets 12 volts as long as the starter is engaged. This 12v pegs the MFI's rack at full rich and the engine starts with just a couple of cranks. It's much neater then pouring raw fuel down the stacks.

I just make sure to open the switch after starting the car since trying to hot start the motor with the switch closed will result in the motor flooding.

The msd looks like a cool upgrade but I don't know if I need it. On the freeway the car runs over 3,000 rpm and msd will not help there. I am curious how it would help when the motor is cold. If I want to start the car cold and drive away I need to keep the revs up and feather in the clutch. 5 min later and it runs like a champ. Will the msd help with that or is that an injection problem?

First off, all of the early 911's need some hand-throttle to keep them idling while the engine is cold. As the engine warms up the idle speed will increase and you can back off on the hand throttle. That being said, you shouldn't need to drive around with the engine idling at 3000 RPM.

How about the heat in traffic? It never got too far over 210 but it did stress me out. Normal driving it will run around 200. Is this normal? I am thinking about getting one of those oil filter heat sinks. They advertise 10% less heat. That is just what I want. I am also thinking of adding a fan to the oil cooler.

That sounds about right for a 2.0 E. Mine rarely breaks through 210 except on hot days, but then I don't track the car. The "Cool Coller" is a waste of time. As far as a fan to the oil cooler, does your car even have a front cooler? If it does, AND its running up above 210, you might have something else going on. That's an awful lot of heat out of a 140 HP E motor. The factory didn't install external oil coolers on the 2.0E's because they didn't need them. The oil cooler attached to the engine was adequate.

The worn out bosh distributor and points made me hate to work on it. It was like shooting in the dark.
Thanks again for the help and I will get some picks up today.

That's when it makes sense to update the distributor with an optical trigger kit. Set it and forget it.